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Good Eats: The Catfish Will Rise Again
While rummaging through some old possessions, Alton chances across a fishing rod, and recalls happy times as a boy evading his responsibilities to go and fish in a nearby river, from which he'd routinely pull river catfish. That, in turn, leads him to explore the various virtues of river catfish. It's a southern staple, but Alton goes even further south – to South America for
Catfish Ceviche, a kind of raw catfish salad. Then he's off to Southeast Asia to explore
Tom Kha Pladuk, a catfish and coconut soup (there made with rather larger catfish). But one thing he won't do is give in to cultural stereotypes and explain how to fry the fish. However, he does know someone – the Colonel – who offers a
Southern-Fried Catfish recipe that Alton admits is righteous.
Recap
Alton sorts through some old belongings. Some are unitaskers and others were free gifts. One very old laptop gets a ninety-nine cents price tag! Then he finds an old fishing rod, which as a child he kept in the carport. That let him sneak off after school unbeknownst to his mother. He'd gather worms on his way to the river, plopping down there for a few hours that usually yielded several catfish. As Alton's mind recalls those days, his chair suddenly hurtles backwards and he finds himself on the banks of a river, fishing pole still in hand. He knows he's supposed to be at work, but can't resist casting his line, and sure enough he quickly snares a channel catfish! When he was a boy he knew only one way to prepare such a catfish: deep fat frying. But he has grown and traveled and learned, and now he knows that just a little coaxing from the cook will turn this fish into...
Good Eats...
Read the full recap
Episode Quotes
Alton: When I was a kid, there were only three words to describe the cooking of a catfish: deep... fat... and fried. But as I've matured and done a little traveling I've learned that the humble catfish of my youth is a culinary sophisticate, who with but subtle coaxing from the cook, can be converted to a global buffet of... Good Eats.
Alton: This catfish is tasting my hand right now.
Alton: I got another one! Would you look at that! How long did that take, like, thirty seconds? No wonder the kids used to call me “Catfish Brown!” (The camera pans to a sign behind Alton that reads, 'Miller Catfish Farm.') Okay, so the deck was stacked a little in my favor. But, truth be told, catfish aquaculture is that rare case when good economics, good ecology and good eats all align.
Alton: You want to see “U.S.A.” on the country of origin sticker, because catfish imported from Asia... one, they're not the same fish, and two, can be raised in ways that would raise the hair on the back of your neck!
Alton: (about fish sauce) Think of that as... kind of... Asia Worchester sauce, only a whole lot funkier.
Alton: (about tom kha pladuk) Now, doesn't this beat the banjos out of silly our fried catfish? (The camera shakes side to side like a head nodding, 'no.') Look. I simply cannot bring myself to pander to such grotesque southern stereotypes, okay? However, I do know somebody who specializes in just this sort of thing...
The Colonel: Fryin's the only way to eat an old river cat, I can tell you that. And by the way? I'm not your uncle. I'm actually your third cousin once removed on your mother's half sister's side.
Cultural References
The episode title, The Catfish Will Rise Again, plays on a slogan that arose following the American Civil War: The South Will Rise Again, since catfish are associated with southern culture and cooking.
Alton proposes calling catfish chicken of the pond because they are so versatile. This is a take on popular tuna brand Chicken of the Sea.
Alton is interrupted by the door bell, and when he asks who is at the door, a low voice replies in succession that the caller is a “plumber,” a “candy gram,” and finally the “Nobel Prize Committee.” The last trick succeeds where the first two failed, and when Alton opens the door a giant catfish engulfs him! This skit is a parody of a sketch called “Land Shark” that appeared on Saturday Night Live in 1975. At that time, moviegoers had seen Steven Spielberg's resort thriller “Jaws” which told the story of a sea-side resort and a great white shark that preyed upon its guests. The film's popularity lead to a sharp increase in reported shark sightings, most of which were erroneous, and the comedy writers of Saturday Night Live responded with their own monster tale: a shark-like but land dwelling predator that tricked young women by misrepresenting itself, and devouring them when they opened their doors. Actor/comedian Chevy Chase provided the creature's low, sinister voice which has been parodied numerous times since then.
The Colonel makes another appearance. He tends to show up whenever Alton needs a knowledgeable individual to help with a traditional southern recipe, like this episodes Deep Fried Catfish. He is a parody of or homage to the late Harlan Sanders, whose iconic white hair, pointed beard and avuncular manner sold a lot of chicken for his Kentucky Fried Chicken retail chain. Caricatures of his trademark visage still do, for successor chain KFC (renamed to make “fried” less apparent at a time of rising health concerns over consumption of fatty foods.)
Episode References
The giant catfish finally tricks Alton into opening his door by pretending it is the Nobel Prize Committee.
One episode earlier, while working with Indian food, Alton constructed a tandoor, or Indian oven, from simple materials – another improvisation that the Nobel Prize Committee overlooked.
That's Another Show: Hush puppies.