Churn Baby Churn II - Recap

Alton's in the grocery store checking out "premium" ice creams - foods so expensive this store chains them to the case and defends them with snippy clerks! There must be a better answer. Alton has one: make your own ice cream!

Back in Alton's kitchen, he gets a crash course in ice cream rules and terms from three “Federal Investigators.” It turns out all those terms: reduced fat, lite, low fat and non-fat all have specific meanings. Government inspectors verify that ice cream meets the criteria for any term that appears on the container. These inspectors also monitor the air content of the product and the quality of the flavor ingredients.

But the key to good ice cream is simpler than all this: you need ice, sugar, air, and protein to form a good foam – eggs and dairy contribute that. Alton’s experimentation has revealed a formula he likes: 9 (sugar) 8 (egg yolks) 3 (half and half) 2 (vanilla) and 1 (heavy cream). Alton reminds those questioning heavy cream that the goal is enjoyment, not weight loss! (This isn’t a formula, it’s a mnemonic.)

Alton explains that good results require good preparation. Ice cream is a food where technique is at least as important as ingredients. He starts by mixing the liquid dairy (cream, half and half) in a saucepan over medium, bringing it to a simmer before removing it from the heat. While it simmers he whisks the egg yolks until they begin to lighten. This process starts building the protein net that will hold air in the ice cream (the ice cream churn will complete that process). The color change signals that they have begun to incorporate air. When the yolks reach this stage Alton starts whisking in sugar. The sugar in, Alton tempers the egg/sugar mixture by adding small amounts of the cream mixture. This increases the temperature of the egg mixture without coagulating the proteins. When the egg mixture is warmed (usually when a third to a half of the cream mixture has been added) Alton adds it to the rest of the cream in the sauce pan. He puts the pan over low heat and thickens this mixture until the back of a serving spoon he dips into it emerges coated. He takes it off the heat and cools it for a half hour before adding some vanilla.

Alton’s next goal is to cool his ice cream batter. He starts by cooling it on the counter and then he slides it into the refrigerator until it reaches 40° or less. Once it reaches that temperature Alton starts up the churn and adds the mixture, churning until the motor begins to labor. At that point the mix has incorporated the right amount of air. It could be eaten as soft ice cream or slid back into the freezer to firm up.

Some folks like other flavors, so Alton modifies the recipe for chocolate ice cream. He starts some unsweetened cocoa powder and part of the half and half in the saucepan. After he whisks that together he adds the rest of the half and half and the cream and brings that to a simmer. The rest of this recipe is exactly like the vanilla ice cream recipe.

Neither of those two flavors to your taste? No problem, says Alton. If you can find some chocolate mint candies chop them coarsely. Prepare ice cream batter the same way you did for vanilla but don’t add vanilla extract. Instead add peppermint extract. When the batter goes into the churn add the chopped mint candies.

The same basic approach can be used for a lot of different flavors.

Alton finishes by discussing what kind of churn is the best. His choice is a smaller machine but with a strong and sturdy motor. Avoid hand cranked churns unless you have a lot of friends you can “Tom Sawyer” into helping make your ice cream!

Alton settles in to eat his ice cream when the “Federal Investigators” return and take his frozen treat away for “testing.” Ah, well, back to the churn...

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