Recap
Seasonality, Alton explains, is the new battle cry of the foodie. By this he means the concept that planet and palette both benefit from serving locally grown foods, and only in season. This is an adjustment for Americans used to a steady supply of everything, all the time. Most of us lack the canning skills of our grandparents, and our freezers are jammed so full of pizza and popsicles there’s no room for serious puttin’ up. During the harvest months so much fruit flows that we cannot eat it all, leaving bacteria, yeast and molds to reduce it to a gooey puddle. Then when the fruity flow ebbs, we pay high prices for fruits grown in distant places – fruits that might not taste like anything at all save for the chemicals growers spray on them. But, Alton continues, there is an alternative. One might reduce an entire season’s worth of fruit to a small package. He’s talking, of course, about home-dried fruit. Sure, one might buy dried fruit, but that offers a far smaller variety and there are those chemicals again. Whereas drying fruit at home is easy and... Good Eats!..
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Episode Quotes
Alton: Before we know it, those food fiends bacteria, yeast and mold (oh, my!) barge in, reducing our cornucopia to an ewwy, gooey, furry, stinky little puddle. Then, when the fruity flow ebbs to a trickle in winter, we’ve no choice but to turn to high priced fruits grown in distant lands.
Alton: With a little bit of know how, some sound science and a wee little smidgen of hardware, you can comfortably contain an entire season of fruity goodness into a package that you can use later, at your whim. That’s right, dried fruit.
Alton: Not only is it easy to make, home dried fruit opens up a world of... (Good Eats theme plays)
Alton: Getting this (holds up a whole fruit) down to this (holds up a dried equivalent) is not simply a matter of aqua absentia. Don’t believe me? Ask a mummy!
Alton: You could also dip the fruit in any number of sulfur based solutions, and that is what is done to most commercially dried fruit. The problem is that a lot of folks, especially asthmatics, are prone to sulfur and sulfite allergies, which can be sudden and severe. So, that leaves us with a question: what might we have in the pantry that bacteria don’t like, that contains antioxidants and that can interrupt enzymatic acid?
Alton: The problem with oven drying fruit is that ideally we’re looking for, say, 115 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Most ovens can’t cruise below about 170º.
Alton: Now that we have it, what do we do with it? Well, dried fruit is called for in thousands of different recipes in both dry and cooked form. I have a favorite recipe in both categories and they’re both ridiculously simple.
Doctor: Since their nutrients are concentrated, each handful of dried fruit delivers a basketful of nutrients, minerals and plenty of vitamins, not to mention phytochemicals such as chlorogenic and neochlorogenic acids which help slow the progression of heart disease.
Cultural References
The episode title is a play in Wuthering Heights, the title of an 1847 novel penned (under a pseudonym) by Emily Brontë. It tells the story of a destructive, unrequited love and is regarded by some as the best of the Brontë sisters’ novels. Withering, of course, comes from the concept of drying fruit, which gives it a withered appearance; plants that receive insufficient water usually wither.
The jackal-headed costume Alton dons for the scene inside the “mummy’s tomb” is a representation of the Egyptian god Anubis, god of funerals and mummification (Seth, the serpent god, presided over the dead).